As I climbed out of the bosun's locker, I looked at the beautiful landscape around me. The sail from St. Petersburg had been rough, and nearly all of us had experienced a bad wave of seasickness. We were entering the Aland Islands, an autonomous community of Finland. Situated off the coast of Sweden, Aland is a diverse maritime culture in itself, being very reminiscent of Nova Scotia. Fishing and tall ships were the main attractions of the town, and although part of Finland, the Swedish language and currency were widely accepted.

After the "all hands" call, we waited on the deck, gazing into this mesmerizing harbor, sporting tallships, catamarans, and fishing boats. The name of the town was Mariehamn, home to about 20 000 people. As we dropped the fenders and pulled alongside, a smiling customs officer greeted us and stamped our passports without delay. The mooring lines were tied, the gangplank went out, and we were ready to see the town. Only a short walk from the ship, the town center was humble and tourist friendly, but with little to do but gaze at the beautiful landscape. With a rich history as a seaport and famous for its fondness of tall ships, the townspeople took great pleasure in accommodating us in every way possible. Our port programs were extensive and rich in information, including a tour of a 200 year old farmhouse.

The Pommern, at one time the largest sailing vessel in the world, stood on the next pier and served as a museum. Inside, we all found many similarities in the sea traditions, but also very harsh living conditions. Rounding Cape Horn from the turn of the 20th century until its decommissioning in the late 1940's, the 24 crew members slept and ate in one small room and shared the same ordeals. During the rounding of the 'Horn, huge swells would toss the ship every which way and sometimes even come crashing onto the deck. With strict water rationing, personal hygiene was no longer facilitated and sailors were sometimes forced to go weeks without bathing. With this in mind, we all started to appreciate our vessel so much more.

Whether it was touring the island and observing the beautiful landscapes, or enjoying American meals at Dino's, Mariehamn was much more than what was expected. Despite being very fond of tourists, the town was nearly empty which made for very friendly service (in English) and overall efficiency in the restaurants and banks. The food was great, the people were graceful, and the island was beautiful.